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He summed up his inspiration thusly with a quote borrowed from the Pulitzer Prize-winning fashion and culture critic Robin Givhan: To be girlish is to be powerful, because power is redefined. Whether Gurung achieved that goal in his spring-summer mix of sporty dresses, loose trouser looks and elegant evening wear is up to interpretation, but hes been thinking a lot about the fundamental questions in todays culture wars over inclusivity, diversity, justice, femininity, beauty and ownership of womens bodies

Everyone always begs for the recipe

Put another plate on top of the whole stack, and press down with a weight

This formula is sneaky-simple but so effective

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